Polki or Kundan: What Is the Difference, and Which Has Diamonds?

Polki is the stone: a natural diamond left uncut, with its flat, natural shape, set in gold. Kundan is a way of setting stones in fine gold foil, and the stones used in Kundan work are often glass or other gems rather than diamonds. So a Polki piece always has diamonds, while a Kundan piece may or may not, and the only way to know is to ask what the stones are and see it written on the bill.

What exactly is Polki?

Polki diamonds are mined diamonds that are not cut into the many facets of a modern round diamond. They are sliced and lightly shaped, so each stone keeps a flatter, natural outline and a soft, warm glow instead of sharp flashes of light. Because every Polki stone is different, no two Polki pieces look exactly alike.

Polki is usually set in yellow gold, often with a foil backing that brings out the stone’s warmth, and paired with emeralds, rubies or pearls. It is the classic choice for the wedding ceremony and for family heirloom sets. You can see how we make it on our Polki jewellery page.

What is Kundan?

Kundan is a technique, not a stone. The craftsperson places stones into a gold frame and packs very fine, pure gold foil around each one to hold it in place. The method is centuries old and gives the clean, gold-edged outline that people picture when they think of a royal Indian necklace.

The important point for a buyer is that the word “Kundan” says nothing about which stones are inside. Kundan work can hold glass, coloured gemstones or uncut diamonds. When uncut diamonds are set this way, the piece is often called Polki or Polki-Kundan.

How can I tell which one I am buying?

You do not need to judge it by eye. Ask four simple questions, and expect a clear answer to each:

1. What are the stones? Uncut natural diamonds, glass or coloured stones should be named plainly.
2. What is the diamond weight? If the piece has Polki diamonds, their total weight should appear on the invoice.
3. What is the gold weight and karat? The gold should be shown separately from the stones, so you can see what you are paying for.
4. Is the gold hallmarked? Look for the BIS mark and the 6-character HUID, and check it yourself in the BIS Care app.

At Vaishnavi Jewels every bill names the stones in the piece and shows the gold weight and the stones separately, and every piece, Polki included, carries a BIS HUID hallmark. Our guide on how to tell if Polki jewellery is real goes through the checks in more detail.

Which one suits my wedding look?

Both look beautiful with Indian bridal wear; the choice is about the feel you want.

• Choose Polki if you want the soft glow of real uncut diamonds, a piece with lasting value of its own, and something you can pass on. It suits the wedding ceremony, heavy lehengas and rich colours like red, wine and emerald.
• Choose Kundan work with coloured stones if you want a bold, colourful look for a sangeet or mehendi, where the outline and the colour matter more than the stones themselves.

Many brides combine the two ideas: a Polki choker or raani haar for the ceremony and lighter coloured pieces for the other functions. If you are planning the whole wedding, our bridal jewellery page shows how we plan a set function by function.

Why does the setting matter for comfort?

A heavy-looking set does not have to feel heavy. In our own manufacturing unit we balance the weight of a Polki necklace across its length, choose clasps that sit flat at the back and fit earrings with supports, so the bride can wear the set through long functions. Because we make the jewellery ourselves, the size of the stones, the layout and the colours of the emeralds or pearls can all be adjusted to your outfit and made to suit your budget.

Frequently asked questions

Is Polki more valuable than Kundan?

Polki contains natural diamonds, so its value depends on the diamond weight and the gold, which the invoice should show. A Kundan piece is valued by its gold and whatever stones it holds. Ask for the stone details in writing for any piece you consider.

Can Polki be set using the Kundan technique?

Yes. Many traditional Polki pieces are set with fine gold foil in the Kundan way. In that case the stones are Polki diamonds and the setting method is Kundan, which is why the two words are often used together.

Is Polki jewellery hallmarked?

The gold in a Polki piece can carry a BIS HUID hallmark, and at Vaishnavi Jewels every piece is HUID hallmarked. You can check the code in the BIS Care app. You can also read our FAQ for more on hallmarks and papers.

To see Polki and Kundan pieces side by side, WhatsApp us on +91 99980 43886 for a video call, or book a visit to our Parle Point showroom.